Selected Writings

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Welcome to a posting of selected articles and commentary - some have been published and others are still looking for a home. Concerning the travel items, whether or not you're ever planning a trip to Northern California, I hope you find them entertaining. But, please, respect my copyrights.
 
The photo of the polar bear is from a trip to San Diego and has nothing to do with any of the travel articles. It's just become one of my recent favorites.

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                               The Many Bodegas – Copyright 2005

            Nestled along the Sonoma County coast north of San Francisco is the tiny inlet of Bodega Harbor. It’s around this small refuge from the open sea and the town of Bodega Bay that the world of “the many Bodegas” turns.

            The harbor is a misshapen triangle of water bordered on the east by State Route 1, on the west by the Bodega Head peninsula, and on the south by the graceful arch of sand called Doran Park. The actual body of water that is Bodega Bay consists of the stretch of relatively calm ocean between Doran Park and Tomales Bay, several miles to the south. In addition to the bay, town, and harbor, the many Bodegas include the inland village of Bodega, Bodega Rocks, and the Bodega Head peninsula.

            Most visitors arrive in the area from the south along State Highway 1, known as the Coast Highway, or from the east through Santa Rosa. Both routes make our most convenient first stop the small, historical village of Bodega, located a few miles southeast of the harbor. Here time seems to have come to a complete stop. The most visible landmark is the steeple of St. Theresa’s Church. The church dates back to the late 1800s and lends itself ideally to photographs in the late afternoon as the sun shines on its western entrance. Ansel Adams made this church his subject during the 1930s. Near the church is another landmark, the old Bodega schoolhouse made famous in Alfred Hitchcock’s production of The Birds. The schoolhouse is now a private residence.

            The village readily lends itself to easy strolling through a myriad of shops. Bodega has several collectable and art establishments including the Wooden Duck Antique Shop and Seagull Antiques.

            Just before entering the coastal town of Bodega Bay, we come upon the entrance to Doran Park. This strand of silver sand gracefully arches for almost two miles towards Bodega Head and is one of the finest recreational beaches north of San Francisco. Looking north from the park you have a panoramic view of the entire harbor, including the town and dozens of fishing vessels anchored at Spud Point on the harbor’s western side. Less than a mile offshore on the park’s ocean side lie Bodega Rocks, home to local sea lions and harbor seals. When the wind is right, you can stand on the beach and hear their barking from across the waves. Doran Park is open year round and offers a wide variety of campsites, as well as dozens of acres of sand and gently sloping beach for an endless variety of outdoor activities.

            The harbor town of Bodega Bay is the center of local activity with its shops, waterfront eateries, and assorted lodging facilities. While there are seasonal activities such as the Fisherman’s Festival and whale watching, Bodega Bay and nearby parks offer a wide variety of year round activities that range from sedate shopping to enthusiastic horseback riding.

            Across the harbor from the town is Spud Point on the Bodega Head peninsula, home to an array of commercial fishing and private recreational vessels. In the 1960s a nuclear power plant was planned for this area but subsequently cancelled after concerns about its safety in the event of an earthquake on the nearby San Andreas Fault. The peninsula is now home to a marine research laboratory operated by the University of California at Davis and a sprawling park operated by the County of Sonoma.

            Bodega Head itself is a majestic granite formation rising high above the Pacific Ocean. It offers excellent viewing of migrating whales, spectacular sunsets, and dramatic shoreline vistas. The area has several miles of hiking trails where, around sunset, unsuspecting hikers may find themselves sharing their outing with local deer.

            While all of these charming spots make up the many Bodegas, the allure of the Sonoma coast inevitably draws all visitors further north. There you will find a vast variety of wildlife, the dunes that surround Salmon Creek, and countless tidepools, just to name a few attractions. No matter how long or short your stay at Bodega, each day can be filled with variety of activities.

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Pt. Lobos – California’s Seaside Jewel

Copyright 2005

            Just south of the charming coastal town of Carmel, nestled between picturesque Highway 1 and the expanse of the Pacific Ocean, lies the Pt. Lobos State Reserve. Although relatively small at less than six hundred acres, the reserve offers visitors over a dozen trails and seemingly countless marvels of nature that can’t be fully explored or appreciated in a single day.

            An ideal spot to begin your Pt. Lobos experience is at Whaler’s Cove, just inside the reserve boundaries. Here you’ll find Whaler’s Cabin, built by Chinese fishermen in the 1850s and now serving as a small museum. Whaler’s Cove is also an ideal spot for chance sightings of local wildlife such as harbor seals, otter, deer, and ground squirrels. Trails extend both east and west from the northward-facing cove, offering incredible views of breaking surf against a rugged and dynamic granite shore. North Shore Trail to the west branches off on to Whalers Knoll Trail and takes you in a loop to an elevation of just under two hundred feet at the small hill of Whalers Knoll. In days past, a signal flag was raised on the hill to let offshore whalers know that their quarry was nearby.

Additionally, in the spring, you may be able to spot a group of nesting great blue herons in the vicinity of the area known as Bluefish Cove. The birds regularly set up housekeeping in this area. Spring is also an ideal time to view the wide variety of wildflowers that grace the entire Pt. Lobos area.

Further into the reserve is the information station located at the main north parking lot – here knowledgeable docents can answer any questions you might have about the reserve. From this central point, you can easily make your way to the Cypress Grove area and Sea Lion Cove.

The Cypress Grove Trail loops you around the Allan Memorial Grove with its stunning windswept cypress trees and captivating seasonal white and purple wildflowers. A climb to the North Point outcropping gives a most impressive and unimpeded view of Pt. Lobos’ north shore.

A walk out to Sea Lion cove offers the best chance to see the boisterous sea mammals that give this area its name as they bask about just offshore on Sea Lion Rocks. You will also likely see the smaller and paler harbor seals and possibly the less frequently sighted otter. In the cove area you’ll notice that the rock on which you stand and walk is not the granite found abundantly elsewhere at Pt. Lobos but rather a conglomerate of rounded stones cemented together by sandstone. This formation is called Carmelo Formation and dates back over thirty-five million years.

Returning from Sea Lion Cove, you can bear right on Sand Hill Trail then right again on South Shore Trail for a full view of Sand Hill Cove and a northward view of Sea Lion Rocks as well as the full expanse of the Pacific.

At the south parking lot, South Shore Trail ends and the shorter Bird Island Trail begins as it takes you on the final southernmost loop around Pelican Point.

For those who desire some inland hiking, you can pick up the South Plateau Trail where it intersects the Bird Island Trail and wander about the interior of the reserve over a series of crisscrossing trails. It’s here that you’re most likely to encounter local deer.

While the enthusiastic hiker could cover all the trails in a singe day, those who return multiple times to walk new paths can find the fullness of Pt. Lobos.

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Eureka! – Copyright 2005

 

Eureka – the state motto of California – is Greek for “I have found it.” If it’s time away from hustle and bustle that you’re looking for, visit the northern coastal city with this same name and you’ll find it.

The Eureka area offers some of the most abundant and unspoiled combinations of ocean and forest found in California as well as an incredible amount of history. While there’s far more to see and do than can be described here in a few words, one of the best ways to enjoy the highlights of this jewel of the northern California coast is to set aside time for three day trips.

Day one has us in Eureka and the immediate area – an ideal first stop is the corner of Second and M Streets in Old Eureka where we find the Carson Mansion and Pink Lady – both exquisite examples of long-past Victorian architecture. While now inaccessible to the general public, the striking and castle-like Carson Mansion is probably the most photographed site in all of Eureka. Just across the street from the mansion, the  Pink Lady is a genteel piece of work distinguished by its unique pink color scheme.

From this famous corner, stroll the length of Second and Third Streets to fully enjoy other distinctive examples of structures a hundred years old or older.

For those of you who are drawn to the outdoors, a recommended next stop on this first day in Eureka is the Arcata Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary just north of the city. A short stop at the visitor’s center allows us to familiarize ourselves with the flora and fauna of this restored marsh and to get a map before we begin a self-guided hike among the numerous trails that beckon. Don’t forget your binoculars.

For those who prefer to stay in town Eureka has more that two dozen antique and collectible shops stocked with items that give you the chance to furnish your home with a bit of north coast history. And, don’t forget to check out local art and crafts shops/galleries as well. For our other day trips, the towns of Arcata to the north and Fortuna to the south are home to their own fair share of such shops.

A final recommended stop for this day trip is the Ft. Humbolt State Historic Park and Logging Museum. This museum provides an extensive history of the logging industry that served as the cornerstone industry in the establishment and growth of the Eureka region.

 

Day two finds us on the road early and headed north for a full day outdoors.

 

Our first stop is Elk Meadow north of the small town of Orick to catch the Roosevelt Elk. Take the Davison turnoff left off of 101. Mind your driving as the elk wander where they please and they have the right of way. Remember too, like all creatures in this area, they are wild animals and are not to be frightened or approached too closely.

While at the meadows, a short hike to Trillium Falls is a must. From the parking lot, walk south along the pond for a few yards and take the fork in the trail to your right up into the forest. A short hike through stunning redwoods will soon bring you to these charming falls set in an emerald forest and is well worth the time.

Back on the main highway (101) and heading north, a short drive brings us to the Lost Man Creek turnoff. A few minutes on a car-friendly access road and we arrive at a parking area with a gate blocking vehicle entry to the fire road. This rough road is ideal for walking the length of the charming Lost Man Creek.

Another ideal walking redwood walking area is located south of Elk Meadow and is found by taking the highway turnoff to the Lady Bird Johnson Grove. This takes us not only to the grove but the Redwood Creek trail as well. A morning well spent getting to know the redwood forest.

By now you’re likely to be in need of some rest and refreshment and this is an ideal time to return south towards Eureka with a stop at the coastal village of Trinidad. After lunch, you can wander the streets of this small town, visit Trinidad State Beach and climb the rock outcropping of Trinidad Head at the harbor’s edge.

 

Day three has us headed south out of Eureka on a day trip that’s a bit slower-paced than day two.

 

Our first stop is the Victorian Village of Ferndale – notable by the fact that the entire town has been designated as a California Historical Landmark – No. 883. Here you’ll find an incredibly variety of Victorian homes dating back a hundred years or more. Take time to wander the streets and enjoy the imaginative paint schemes, striking gables, and stunning old-style porches. One must-see stop is the Gingerbread Mansion and Inn one block off of Main Street at Brown and Berding Streets.

In addition to the numerous homes in town, Main Street is lined with dozens of charming buildings from the Victorian Era as well. If you’re interested in some serious photography, you may want to arrive in town early to avoid having to deal with traffic and parked cars, especially on Main Street.

After our visit to Ferndale, we leave town on Washington Street to the southeast on our way to catch 101 south near Rio Dell. Take 101 south to the Jordan Creek exit and follow the signs to the Avenue of the Giants. The Avenue is approximately 30 miles of gently winding road that intertwines with the Eel River through dense redwoods and was originally established as a stagecoach road. When you reach the Dyerville Loop Road, turn left to the Founders Grove. The Grove offers a one-mile loop walk over mostly level ground and has some of the most striking examples of the redwood ecosystem in one small area. Even after our day two exploits, it’s a stop not to be missed.

            These three day trips are just a sampling of what lies in store for visitors to this quiet nook of Northern California.

     
     

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